Dragons bone Atessa
Atessa: The Dragon’s Rib and a Day of Discoveries
Have you ever wondered if dragons really existed? Well, in the town of Atessa there is a dragon’s bone to prove once and for all that they did. Or did they? There was only one way to find out.
With Anna Pia, a historian, professor, and expert in Atessa’s history, we set out for a day of discovery and adventure starting at the Cathedral of San Leucio. Here, on the high steps outside the cathedral, we learned the legend of the town. San Leucio, Bishop of Brindisi, conquered and killed a dragon that was terrorising the two towns of Ate and Tixia, thus uniting them as one—known today as Atessa. After the slaying of the dragon, the saint donated its blood and a rib to the town as a reminder. These can be found today, impressively displayed inside the stunning cathedral, alongside intricate wood-carved choir stalls and a pulpit carved by master woodworker Mascio in 1935. During the restoration of the choir stalls, frescoes were discovered dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries—just some of the many treasures inside this fascinating cathedral.
There are around twenty-five more churches in this small town of only ten thousand people—each with a legend, a relic, and a story to tell—and we had time for one more, the oldest in Atessa. We knocked on the door of the house beside it and a sweet elderly lady, custodian of the key, ventured out and unlocked the big old wooden door for us. Inside, Anna Pia told us the intriguing story of a miracle involving the small statue of the Madonna delle Grazie, and we saw marble tables engraved with cherubs and flowers using a very rare engraving technique.
After history and religion, it was time for a bit of culture—and the town’s theatre was a little gem. It was opened especially for our visit, and we were delighted to find a perfect example of Art Deco, modelled on the famous Teatro alla Scala in Milan. It was absolutely beautiful: red velvet and gold with opulent lighting, and the town’s emblem—the dragon—sitting prettily above the entranceway. It is well worth visiting for a concert; with only 200 seats, it is intimate and charming, and the décor alone is worth gazing at for an hour or two.
We meandered down the cobbled streets with breathtaking views toward the coast, heading to Il Duca, our destination for lunch. Along the way we stopped at the town’s famous Piretti shop, renowned for delicious torrone and liqueurs. It would have been rude not to taste the delights: centerbe, ratafià, and limoncello—so we did. We left with shopping bags full and a promise to return for more. Lunch was a typical long and steady celebration of all things traditional and local: tasty cheeses and cured meats, the famous pasta alla chitarra served with a slow-cooked mutton sauce, more grilled meats to follow, seasonal vegetables, and roasted potatoes. We somehow managed to squeeze in a delicious semifreddo made with the Piretti torrone we had tasted earlier, and washed it all down with local wine and a digestivo to finish us off.
On this fact-packed day, we only scratched the surface of this beautiful town with Anna Pia. There are so many stories and legends to tell of Atessa. It is a fascinating place with oodles of history and many well-organised feste and events throughout the year. It buzzes at night with its bars and restaurants, and during the day it’s perfect for exploring its cobbled streets and alleyways. It is a town that has it all—views, history, art, gastronomy—and a dragon’s bone? We’ll leave that last one for you to decide.
